On The Trail Of The Piper

taken from Escimo Chain

Over the years, the truth about Syd Barrett has become hopelessly obscured by the myth. Who knows what really went on at UFO? Did the 'Mandies Incident' actually happen? And was he spotted outside Harrods wearing a large Yogi Bear necktie? It's impossible to say, especially as the key witness is unwilling or unable to recall. But it is still possible to make a tangible link with the past by investigating some of Syd's old haunts. Stones can't talk, but at least some of the places that he knew remain, to help put the story into perspective.

With this in mind, I recently spent an afternoon on the streets of the capital, following the trail of the Piper. As you might expect, there have been a lot of changes and in many ways, the London Barrett knew in his Floyd days has disappeared as completely as say, Dickens' London. But it is satisfying to find that a few places have survived, much as he would remember them.

My first destination was 2 Earlham Street, just a few minutes walk from Leicester Square tube. Here Syd composed most of his classic Floyd material, whilst living a bohemian lifestyle with his then girlfriend, Lynsey Korner, back in 1966. Sadly, the house has been demolished and the site is now a Spud-U-Like. Same goes for the Blarney Club at 31 Tottenham Court Rd, home of the legendary UFO. The whole block has been redeveloped, with the spot now being occupied, appropriately enough, by a hi fi store.

However, you can still get a tasty capuccino at the nearby Pollo Bar on Old Compton Street, where according to Nick Schaffner's 'Saucerful Of Secrets', Syd would linger for hours over sandwiches. Although little else has survived, just wandering around the area gives you a sense of how central Barrett was during this crucial period. He was literally living, and of course working, right in the heart of Swinging London.

At the height of the psychedelic explosion, Syd moved from the relative calm of Earlham St, to 101 Cromwell Rd, South Kensington. This was a notorious address at the time, when it was the doped-up headquarters of underground London. The Donovan song, 'Sunny South Kensington', gives a vivid impression of the scene. Unfortunately, it was also here that Barrett's escalating acid intake finally pushed him over the edge. The house stood just around the corner from Gloucester Road tube, but once again, the scene of the crime is no more. The site has been redeveloped to make way for a shopping centre.

After a short spell in a flat on Richmond Hill, Syd was rescued by Storm Thorgerson and taken to Egerton Court, South Kensington, a distinctive block of flats directly opposite South Kensington underground. The curved facade can still be seen today and with its seedy bedsit look, seems to have changed little since 1968. Here, Barrett was allegedly locked up in the linen cupboard during his bad trips. It was also where he was living during the chaotic, abortive sessions for Pete Jenner that produced 'Silas Lang' and 'Lanky'. Following a serious breakdown here, Syd went on a manic drive around Britain in his mini and ended up confined for treatment in Cambridge.

Barrett returned to London in December 1968 and moved into the famous flat pictured on the front of 'The Madcap Laughs' and celebrated in Mick Rock's book of the same name. It's located high up in the Wetherby Mansions, Earl's Court Square, only a few minutes from Earl's Court tube and ironically, very close to where Pink Floyd staged 'The Wall' concerts in 1980. It is an impressive building, with stunted trees standing guard in the street, reaching out of the ground like knarled fingers. The Madcap's presence lingers on.

Wetherby Mansions was the setting for the last chapter of Barrett's creative life. Whilst living here, he recorded his two legendary solo albums and of course played his one-off gig at the Olympia, but it was also the scene of his further mental deterioration. Two years later, he moved out and entered the creative limbo he's been living in ever since.

After a few years back home in Cambridge, Syd returned to London and took up residence in the exclusive Chelsea Closters, off Sloane Avenue. Living on the fat of his royalty cheques, his lifestyle revolved around watching endless TV and served to inspire many of the 'perfect isolation' scenes in the film version of 'The Wall'. From here of course, he also turned out to spook the Floyd during the recording of 'Wish You Were Here'.

To get there, take the tube to South Kensington and walk down Pelham Road to the top of Sloane Avenue. The Chelsea Cloisters is the massive edifice on your right. It's a grim, almost Stalinist building, that looks expressly built for privacy. In fact, Barrett could hardly have chosen a more reclusive place to hide away. Sheltered by the doorman, his flat was way up on the Ninth Floor, offering the total seclusion he craved.

However, he did frequent the nearby pub, The Marlborough Arms in Elystan St. Call in and you'll find that they still serve an excellent pint of Guinness - his favourite tipple at the time. It's a comfy pub and a real local's local. The ideal place to enjoy a pint without attracting attention. According to 'Crazy Diamond', Ronnie Salmon and some of the other staff from Chelsea Cloisters would try to engage Syd in their conversation, but without success.

Unfortunately, Syd's royalty money eventually ran out and he was obliged to leave. The Chelsea Cloisters was Barrett's last long term address in London and after leaving here, he returned to the more tranquil surroundings of Cambridge, to try and 'lead a normal life'.

And so the trail ends. As I've already detailed, much of Syd's London has long gone, but there again, there's a still a lot left for the serious Barrettophile to investigate. If you're visiting London, I'd recommend a journey to the Wetherby Mansions and the Chelsea Cloisters. These are the places that have both retained a certain mystique, and of course, the latter offers the chance to enjoy a good pint into the bargain. Cheers!

Iain Smith

Original version written for 'Chapter 24' fanzine.